Question about Aerobic install

[joslinya]

I have a septic system with lateral lines. Lines are on a slight slope so in addition to the 1000 gal. trash tank I have a 1000 gal. pump tank. I'm in Mustang OK where we've had record rainfall over the last year. I am now experiencing water surfacing when the pump activates.

The septic guys I talked to say the field is saturated and I need to convert to aerobic. The three companies I talked to use all in one tanks but would use my existing trash tank and cave in my existing pump tank. In my research it seems I might be able to drop in an aeration tank between the existing trash and pump tanks and add lines and sprinkler heads for distribution of the effluent.

Does anyone have experience with this they can share?

Thanks in advance.

[Pete Morici]

I have a septic system with lateral lines. Lines are on a slight slope so in addition to the 1000 gal. trash tank I have a 1000 gal. pump tank. I'm in Mustang OK where we've had record rainfall over the last year. I am now experiencing water surfacing when the pump activates.

The septic guys I talked to say the field is saturated and I need to convert to aerobic. The three companies I talked to use all in one tanks but would use my existing trash tank and cave in my existing pump tank. In my research it seems I might be able to drop in an aeration tank between the existing trash and pump tanks and add lines and sprinkler heads for distribution of the effluent.

Does anyone have experience with this they can share?

Thanks in advance.

Converting a septic to aerobic bacteria is a fairly simple process. Aerobic bacteria is claimed to be faster-acting and more aggressive than the typical anaerobic bacteria. It is also claimed that when the aerobic bacteria gets to the field that it will devour the biomat which is a common cause of field failure and in fact - restore a failed drainfield. (That's what the manufactures say). Supporting aerobic bacteria requires an air-infuser, also called an oxygenator. There is an air pump that sits outside of the tank which pumps air to the infuser (an air bubbler) sitting inside the clarifying chamber of a tank. The already, somewhat clean effluent is "bubbled" and the fine particulates fall to the bottom, super-cleaning the effluent. Aerobic bacteria is manually added (periodically), above the bubbler, and is mixed in by the bubbling action. Filters are optionally added at the tank's outlet. A riser above the bubbler is necessary for ongoing, scheduled maintenance and adding the aerobic bacteria packets.

It sounds like you have a "forced" system. In other words, it drains under pressure (with a pump) rather than typical gravity.

Although what you suggest may be helpful - I would also be considering installing a chamber system to add drainfield capacity. And, protect the chambers from rain infiltration with the appropriate products. If you're going to dig a hole, you may want to install the chambers and get it over with at the same time. And, give the the rainwater someplace to go instead of sitting on top of your field.

If you would like to see installation videos of a couple of different aerobic conversion systems, I have them uploaded at http://drainbiz.blogspot.com/2008/01/video-remediate-with-air.html

[Trent]

If you have been experiencing record rainfall, your condition might be temporary and may need nothing more than time or a "curtain drain" around your drainfield area to divert the ground water. I'd get another opinion or two before I went to the expense of going aerobic.

[Pete Morici]

If you have been experiencing record rainfall, your condition might be temporary and may need nothing more than time or a "curtain drain" around your drainfield area to divert the ground water. I'd get another opinion or two before I went to the expense of going aerobic.

Curtain drains are just shallow french drains designed to drain off soggy backyards. This sounds like this is a pressurized system (there is a pump.) The surface water may not be just rainwater, it could be mixed with effluent being pushed up to the surface. In addition, 3 companies have looked at it saying the field is saturated. Tough call....

[Trent]

True, but it seems like a weather related problem since it has no history (that we know of) of surfacing.

[joslinya]

I appreciate the responses. I tried to be brief but here is some more information.

House is three ½ years old. Perc test was 13 min /inch; 300 ft lat lines. 1 acre lot.

I had no problems until late last summer. Weather has been unusually wet but has been so for over 12 months now. So far this year it is the wettest in 5 years. Last year was in the top ten wettest in history. We are now entering our wettest months in April and May. I've had a wet spot for 6 or 7 months and it has been visibly surfacing for at least the last month (Bubble under the sod when the pump activates). This wet spot is at the end of the last and lowest of three lateral lines. According to the original installer, I have no distribution box, the system stair steps. Probes of the upper lines indicate high moisture is present there.

My neighbor has lateral lines with a lift tank and he is experiencing similar problems. Our pumps cycle on floaters. My neighbor had a timer put on his and it has not helped. My other neighbor has aerobic and has had no problems and has no complaints on his 5 year old system.

Our drainage ditches up and down the street and between properties will not dry out. There is standing water in my water main, sprinkler valve and backflow valve boxes (I am not running the sprinkler, didn’t need to last year). Multiple septic companies report saturation problems and high water table in my area.

I have checked for leaks in the house and find none. I checked household water consumption and average 6200 gal/mo. for a family of four going back to September and was below 5800 last month (trying to conserve).

I considered a drain curtain above the field but we want to build a new house and want to sell. I want a fix that I can rely on. I hate to go through the mess of installing a drain curtain that does not fix the problem. If that has been a successful strategy for some I’d like to hear more about that.

I had two more companies out yesterday that install the separate aeration tank. They indicate they believe they can drop in an aeration tank between the existing trash and pump tanks and add lines and sprinkler heads coming from the existing pump tank for distribution of the effluent. Slope from tank to tank is a concern. They are researching and preparing estimates. In addition to other ideas I am seeking any insight and experience into this kind of installation where an aeration tank was installed using the existing trash and pump tanks. It occurred to me, and I spoke to our environmental quality office about this, that I would have to shock (clean up) the existing pump tank before using to pump the treated effluent through the sprinkler system.

Oklahoma requires a 2 yr initial service contract with the installer that includes quarterly inspections.

Sorry for the long note but wanted to get you as much info as I could. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[Pete Morici]

Aerating the system gives you options on how to dispose of the effluent because it's much cleaner than the normal stuff. I think the sprinklers are problematic. You never know when they'll come on or what chemical concoction is hiding in the effluent. Your guests won't appreciate that. Are you going to spray around remnants of household bleach and your latest medical prescriptions? Is it really safe for children and pets?

You’re fighting nature: high water table and poor soil conditions. The effluent has no where to go.

There may be two more alternatives to investigate rather than the sprinkler idea.

Ask about a backup "mounded field."

Rather than going to sprinklers, a separate pipe is brought from the existing pump to a remote corner of the property. Favorable, good-draining soil is brought in and mounded. Within the mound, chambers (http://www.infiltratorsystems.com/) are installed. The idea is to get a second field above ground level for times like this. It may be 20-30ft long and 4ft high, for example. Sizing is really up to you because the primary field has already met local requirements-(that would be my argument). On the pump outlet is a 3-way valve (like they use on swimming pools) where a homeowner can swing the handle to redirect the effluent to the original field, the mounded field or both simultaneously. The valve has one inlet (from the pump) and two outlets (one for each field).

The new mound can be disguised with landscaping. If the mound saturates the extra effluent will ooze out at ground level, perhaps watering plants placed around the perimeter base, which should be OK if they're going to let you uses sprinklers anyway.

One final possiblility would be to run that second discharge pipe to your property line and terminate it as close to the storm ditch as allowed. You set 2 pop-up "bubblers" at the end of the line, allowing the effluent to come to the surface and drain off into the ditch.

If you were buying that house, what would make you feel more comfortable - Sprinkkers or the backup mounded system?

[Trent]

Your pump tank should be pumped and cleaned before use in a sprinkler system.

[yspring]

All this talk of adding things to the system, but nothing about how much it will cost. Mound systems are VERY expensive, tending to be $3000 to $6000 more than a typical tank and leach field system.

I like the aeration system solution the best, since it is a minor change to your existing system. There are some companies that advertise an aerator motor for an existing septic tank - then you wouldn't have any tank costs.

The problem you have is you're trying to put water into water. Septic systems don't work underwater! One of the best things you can do is conserve water - turn off the water when you're brushing your teeth or shaving; in the shower, get wet, turn off the water, soap up, then turn the water back on to rinse off. Replace an older top load washing machine with a front loader, which uses nearly 1/2 the water (and detergents) of a regular machine. Replace all faucet aerators and shower heads with water conserving devices. If you really want to get radical, replace your toilets with new water conserving toilets (or even more radical with a composting toilet). Bottom line - less water will help your system.

I tell folks if you never use your system, then it will never fail! :D